Andrew J. Lederer's BRAND NEW LIFE

You  know how you can tell that there are no Italians in Little Italy?  Instead of demure societal clubs within which nefarious  deeds are calmly planned, now there are places called “Come in Here and We’ll Beat the Shit Out of You.”

It’s gone from an ethnic neighborhood to a theme street, with maitre d’s standing outside of restaurants, promising to take a hit out on you or a companion if you choose the linguine (which might kill you on its own) in an authentically Itralian environment.

It’s called contract dining.

Adapted (I believe) from the world of bridge.

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